We walked to the Nile

The name of our neighbourhood, Maadi, comes from the Arabic word for “ferry boat,” because it was once a place for people to cross the Nile. So we knew that if we walked in somewhat of the right direction we might be able to catch a glimpse of the river that gave life to one of the world’s oldest civilizations.

We had already walked most of the way across Maadi (from our apartment in Maadi Degla to Road 9, a main drag lined with shops) on another occasion, so the Nile looked doable on the map.  We walked to Road 9, followed it down and continued on, looking for a way to cross the train tracks that separate us from the other side of Maadi. Walking past a couple of mosques and a subway station, we finally found an overpass. We crossed and entered another world.

Overlooking the corniche side of the railway tracks from the pedestrian overpass.

It was still Maadi, but this market area on the other side of the tracks seemed like the so-called “real” Egypt, the urban Egypt of your mind. There were donkeys pulling carts and baskets full of chickens and rabbits. The long-studied map was no longer of any help to us, as we had no idea what street we were on, so we just followed our instincts. We made it to a busy street and got completely confused, so Ben used his expanding Arabic to ask for directions (or as he says, pointed to the map, using well-pronounced but in the end totally out of place phrases!) to the Nile Corniche.  The corniche winds alongside the Nile and into Cairo.

Luckily we were not far from our destination, and after a block or two we caught our first glimpse of the great river! While I cannot say the Nile is awe-inspiring in itself, just knowing that it is the Nile is pretty amazing.

The mighty Nile viewed from the cafe.

We first had to make our way past a few young army men with machine guns. And tanks: there were three manned tanks.  (For security reasons, we assume, they were stationed outside one of the main entrances to Maadi, between the town and the corniche.)  A uniformed officer eventually stopped traffic in one direction to help us half way across the corniche, AKA boulevard of crazy-mayhem-traffic-death.

Finally across, we dashed for the first cafe in sight.  None of the other patrons was eating, just relaxing, Ramadan style.  The cafe kitchen was up and running, so “screw it” we thought and ordered a mezza platter, a salad, and some lower-case “d” drinks.

The mezza platter, unfortunately, was not as vegetarian as expected.  This, I only discovered after Ben informed me that the falafel I’d just eaten was actually a ball of beef!  I’m not going to die of that one kebab . . . but note to self: beware Cairo’s boulevards of doom!

The friendly hostess temporarily abducted Tal, and the two played while Ben and I enjoyed a few moments with our food.  Looking again at the crazy corniche, the decision to take a cab back was an easy one.  Ben practiced his Arabic instructions and we made it home, a few detours later, for $1.50.

I can see how one could get used to taking a taxi everywhere. It’s probably the single most affordable and practical luxury here.  But Maadi is so walkable, and I really enjoy experiencing my city from the pavement.  So I’ll do the walk again.  After all, for the first time in my life I can say, “I walked to the Nile.”

And a picture of Tal overlooking the Nile, because we all know that’s why you are here 😉

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